SS14 Fashion Week Takeaway #2 of 7

Sports Direct: Track Suits Tailoring
Fashion | 18 July 2013
Above:

Gucci SS14

This article is part of Fashion Week – London, Milan, Paris, NYC

This week on HERO, we’re bringing you Fashion Week Takeaways, everything you need to know about SS14 menswear in our definitive take on the season…

Mixing sportswear with suiting is how menswear’s been styling for seasons. But this time even usually tailored labels went all the way in that attitude, building their collections from a sportswear mentality.

Frida Giannini is making a statement when she doesn’t show an evening shoe on her Gucci catwalk, instead pairing every look with sneakers (admittedly in special ultra luxe leather). Afterwards, there weren’t any dress shoes to look at in the showroom either, so you’ll need to consult the permanent collection if that’s your predilection. Opening in a printed t-shirt and pull-on trousers, Adrien Sahores set the tone of this designer’s most refreshing collection for some time.

Massimiliano Giornetti of Salvatore Ferragamo reminded us how radical the historic brand’s founder was. Applying a savoir faire approach to sportswear and blurring with the formality of tailoring, the same fabrics were used across both. Whilst the sock-shoes in the show were based on an idea Ferragamo showed in 1951.

Lucas Ossendrijver and Alber Elbaz at Lanvin are known for a chic mash-up. This season the house’s knitted take on Oxford Bags were inspired by humble jogging bottoms. Conceptually, that’s pretty potent.

Lanvin SS14

Why focus on the tracksuit archetypes we grew up with, you’re probably wondering? Well, the twentysomething man earning now and beginning to buy luxury ready-to-wear recognises himself in these looks. Within that familiarity and covetability there is the reward of trading up to the best versions of these things you’ll ever have. Pride is not only about looking good, in this case it comes with a real personal accomplishment.

And it’s not just limited to clothing in Milan and Paris (London, you do street like no other but this is a very specific, parallel story).

– Adidas is the athletic brand taking charge of SS14 with out-there Rick Owens and Raf Simons collaborations, far more eccentric than anyone saw coming. They’re doing things the other way, speaking to a fashion crowd who wouldn’t see themselves in their stripes otherwise.

Don’t miss our other new season takeaways. Be informed with Show Business: Runways Go Hard; Agenda-Setting Collection: Prada; Agenda-Setting Collection: Saint Laurent; Hair Today: The Christopher Shannon Effect; Been Caught Stealing: Girls Take Boys’; The Best Looks of SS14.

 

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