This week on HERO, we’re bringing you Fashion Week Takeaways, everything you need to know about SS14 menswear in our definitive take on the season…

SAINT LAURENT IS ALL-OUT EXHILARATING 

When Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent menswear hit the runway for AW13, it did so with the force of a youthquake – the tremors of which were what inspired Yves Saint Laurent to inaugurate luxury ready-to-wear, Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, in 1966, changing ‘designer clothes’ forever. (That revolution is the foundation of why we’re able to be here in 2013, talking about/wearing/getting excited by fashion).

In 1968, the year of Paris’ student riots, Mr Saint Laurent declared “Down with the Ritz, long live the street!” – Slimane’s first menswear show had plenty of that visceral adolescent attitude too, channelled through grunge. It was given a pedestal in the choice of venue, the Grand Palais, one of Paris’ most prestigious addresses. The kids, playing in bands from Bournemouth to Los Angeles were here in Fashion’s Capital headlining the entire season with their high-octane rock fairground – and what were you going to do about it, dear institutionalists?

Wild spirits clad in a beautifully tailored line (and taking control of it) is something evocative of both YSL and Hedi. Featuring runway cameos from the likes of Julia Nobis, boys’ clothes on boys were contrasted with the reckless allure of boys’ clothes on girls, in the manner of Le Smoking. Except here they were MX leather pants covered in zips. And those flannel shirts.

Leaving a distinct imprint from the off then, the Saint Laurent tribe had nothing to prove for SS14. So this time they’d declare their sophistication instead, draw back into enigma and show exactly why they’re worth it.

The new season is a collection of character, revelling in the traits of the individual. LED billboards extended telescopically, arched and turned golden, illuminating a boulevard. We were a fly on the wall watching these protagonists walk from dressing room to stage, consumed in their thoughts – and they looked every inch like idols. Musician/artist Sam Flax’s 19 minute soundtrack, taking the baton from West Coast one man band Ty Segall, was titled Fire Doesn’t Burn Itself, a statement perfect for this potent grouping. The clothes were featured on Fletcher and Wyatt Shears of The Garden, Rex Osterkamp of Rexx, Jake Williams of Dr Skinnybones, Jordan Gatesmith of Howler, Zachary Cole Smith of DIIV, Jonathan Powell of The Din, Matthew Hitt of Drowners, Vincent Barbier of SOBO and Spencer Williams of High Tyde.

In the mix we got sequinned bretons and argyles, mirrored aviators, pillarbox red patent trousers, bandit bandanas and chequerboard bikers. A military parka was cut like a tailcoat. Western-buckle boots went from zebra to Rive Gauche pink (check the 60s label for those little squares). A silk blouson with contrasting sleeves had Luke Thomas’ Blood Luster artwork realised as a couture embroidery – the piece of the entire season, full stop. Others whose work featured were Matt Connors and Zane Reynolds (the house has always celebrated artists, the famous Mondrian dress dates from 1965). Plus there were crystal-laden articulated lion brooches resting on the shoulder (look 21), ready to pounce.

All this and wait until you see the extras we clocked in the showroom – the tribute really does extend back to the fans. It’s not difficult to understand why this is our best of SS14.

Don’t miss our other new season takeaways. Be informed with Show Business: Runways Go Hard; Sports Direct: Track Suits Tailoring; Agenda-Setting Collection: Prada; Hair Today: The Christopher Shannon Effect; Been Caught Stealing: Girls Take Boys’; The Best Looks of SS14.