Tony Viramontes made his debut in fashion illustration in the late 70s with almost immediate success, getting commissions with an importance more akin to today’s top-tier fashion photographers. From Lei and Per Lui in Italy to US Vogue, The Face in Britain, as well as Jill, Marie Claire and Le Monde in France, his client list and who’s who of subject portraits read like a Studio 54 VIP guest list.

Unsurprisingly his legacy has prompted numerous reimaginations and publications of his work. But now you can see the real deal, as an exhibition at 10 Corso Como‘s Gallery Carla Sozzani in Milan pays tribute to his legendary portfolio. By the time of his death in 1988 he had worked with some of the most celebrated names in fashion – Gaultier adored him, as did Valentino and Hanae Mori. He had also beautifully illustrated couture collections for Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Cardin, Ungaro and the House of Dior.

Portraits of Isabella Rossellini, Janet Jackson and Tero Toye (Stephen Sprouse’s muse) were among the Illustrations which made him, along with his depictions and polaroids of the many other dandies creating the exploding 80s New York club scene.

Sensuous mouths, exaggerated hips and shoulders thrust out in his work; a distinctive punctuation of a Viramontes portrait is the attitude in his model’s poses. And not just for women, as his men shared the same insolence.

A stop in Corso Como is essential in Milan anyway, though now you have an extra reason to drop by (it’s been made possible with the sponsorship of philanthropic LA denim dons, Citizens of Humanity). And if you’re thirsty for more, the V&A in London gets a touch of Viramontes from next month. Watch out.

Tony Viramontes: The Bold, Beautiful and Damned
6th September – 3rd November 2013
10 Corso Como
Milan, Italy

Illustration courtesy of Tony Viramontes Studio Archive