Nicholas Kirkwood, the man who makes women’s legs the world over shake with anticipation of owning his luxury footwear, surprisingly started his shoe design career creating men’s shoes for himself and special clients. So it’s fitting he’s come full-circle, opening a men’s pop-up store on Mayfair’s Mount Street to showcase his debut men’s collection.

He’s learned from the best of British, after living with Isabella Blow and working for Philip Treacy. Recently selling a majority stake in his label to LVMH is the move that has allowed his business to expand – thus bringing his vision for luxury men’s shoes to London. Very nice indeed!

Thomas Davis: You opened a pop-up store to debut your first men’s collection on Mount Street in Mayfair. Who designed the store, what can we find in there and can we expect a permanent space in the future?
Nicholas Kirkwood: I worked with architectural designer Mehrnoosh Khadivi, to create an evolution of my installation during London Collections: Men. It’s an all-black gallery like environment with an interactive element. In store, you can find my debut men’s AW13 collection and yes, fingers crossed we can work towards a more permanent space from SS14. 

TD: Your first men’s collection was made up of six shoe types. What would you recommend as being the essentials for men to have in their collection? And can you tell us about your vision for men’s footwear?
NK: I am probably not the best person to answer this, considering I only owned three pairs of shoes prior to launching my men’s line but like women, men need a good dress shoe and a good day shoe, my pick is the slip on Chelsea boot. With the men’s line I am looking to develop new soles, uppers and fabrics to work with. There is a lot of scope for innovation in men’s footwear and this really appeals to me.

TD:You have a made to order service on your website which offers shoes in materials such as alligator, crocodile, and ostrich. How do you think the menswear market fairs in terms of exotic skin shoes?
NK: I think exotic skins are quite niche particularly when it comes to footwear but there is definitely an opportunity for this within European markets.

TD: In what respect (apart from the obvious) is it different creating men’s to women’s? Is it easier to make men’s shoes for yourself?
NK: I actually started making men’s footwear prior to launching my women’s line so it is quite natural to me. There are different processes and craftsman for men’s which I have had to be re-introduced to but I wouldn’t say it is easier. There is, however, lots of opportunity to explore new technologies within the styles and these have in turn, dictated some of the silhouettes and fabrications used with my women’s line.

TD: Which type of man, famous or otherwise, would you like to see wearing them?
NK: Theo Hutchcraft [of Hurts], I think he has a great sense of style.

TD: Male designers seem to come up top in terms of the luxury footwear brands – yourself, Christian Louboutin, Manolo Blahnik. Why do you think this is?
NK: I’m not sure, I mean there are some great women in this market also like Tabitha Simmons and Charlotte Olympia.

TD: LVMH has recently acquired a stake in your brand. How do you think this will benefit your business and creativity?
NK: It will allow us to expand our staff which will hopefully, mean more time for myself to focus on designing and developing the collection. At the moment we are all doing about five jobs each!

TD: Does London still inspire you?
NK: Yes, the city will always inspire me; however, I have had the opportunity to travel a lot of late and have just returned from Brazil, a definite eye opener.

TD: I read that you lived with Isabella Blow and worked for Phillip Treacy before becoming a footwear designer. What did you learn from them?
NK: The experience with Philip was incredible, I feel it is really important to work for someone and learn from him or her first before launching your own brand. What I learnt most from him though is to be successful you must first learn your craft and the techniques. Isabella’s bold style definitely taught me to take chances.

Visit the Nicholas Kirkwood Pop-Up at  109 Mount Street, London, W1K 2TR
Shop the collection online