The collection itself infused couture construction with a hint of sex appeal. From ball-gowns with buttock cut-outs to lashings of black latex, Mugler’s fetish-inspired looks shook up a couture industry previously known for demure, low-key presentations. Alongside other couture giants like Jean Paul Gaultier, Viktor + Rolf and Martin Margiela (whose ‘Artisanal’ line was made entirely from found objects), Mugler was instrumental in the couture revolution of the 1990s.

Subtly, Mugler’s casting also rallied against ageism and fatphobia. There was no blueprint when it came to choosing the personalities that would bring his collections to life, only a focus on charisma and an innate sense of glamour. In his eyes, anyone could become a living, breathing embodiment of heightened perfection and this focus on personality amped up industry fascination with supermodels, giving them minutes instead of seconds to captivate their audiences.

The most memorable work of performance art in this show came around twenty minutes in, with the debut of Mugler’s seminal ‘Cyborg’ suit. He had experimented with metal breastplates and sci-fi fantasies for years before this, taking inspiration from artists like Hajime Sorayama and his “sexy robots”, but this was next-level.

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A post shared by Thierry Mugler Archives (@thierrymugler_archives) on Apr 24, 2017 at 4:57pm PDT

Labradorite, Ruby and Diamond Stick Pin (1890s) $8,514

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