The visceral ebb and flow of intercultural dress codes forms a constant vortex of inspiration for Graeme Gaughan of Tourne De Transmission. That the brand’s title translates literally to “rotating transmission” – an analogy for the communication of ideas via visuals and words – it’s a worthy source.

For FW14, references were both close to and far from Gaughan’s East London home in Bow, where traditional Bangladeshi dress codes are meshed with those of Western street culture. “The kids hanging out at the end of my street rocking a long arabic dress shirt with a destroyer jacket over the top of it with scull caps,” says Gaughan. “What’s even better is they don’t even think about it. As our friend Mr Barry Kamen would say, it’s killer.”

It traces to a more mature generation as well, Gaughan explaining that the collection’s loose styling is borrowed from the emphasis on oversized silhouettes and layering he sees amongst men of an older generation. Tunic-length acid wash denim shirting (lightened from SS15’s stormy tones) is paired with a classic motorcycle jacket. Elsewhere, trousers balloon in silhouette, raw hems playing off the finite feel of a neat, printed zip-up, while leather bombers are cut in bison skin. Footwear comes via a special collaboration with Timberland.

The repetitive prints and monochrome colour palette that have become a signature for TDT here take Gaughan’s cultural references outside close geographic proximity – Arabic villages as seen from satellite imagery form the basis for stark, geometric motifs while more abstract prints draw from visuals of sand storms and the rocky foot beds of the Atlas Mountains. Black and white tones seek to reflect the isolation of freedom fighters in locales like Egypt and Syria (cue the collection name – Disorder), while longer silhouettes trace the style of Malian band Terakaft’s guitarist and frontrunner, Liya Ag Ablil.

“I love how they mix traditional Arabic nomad clothing and throw a few Western rock and roll elements like leather jackets over the top of their traditional clothing, creating a boss look,” says Gaughan. “Their music is quite amazing and hypnotic as well…” Cue it up and press play – Graeme’s recommendation is well worth a YouTube bookmark.

DISORDER from Tourne De Transmission is in stores now