Power lines and tram tracks have never looked so good, as Canali’s FW15 collection by Andrea Pompilio emulates the foundations that built the city of style. Precise and haphazard lines awash form-fitted clothing in tones of brown and grey, with a shock of yellow in double-breasted woolen coats, and copper and burgundy tailored wear. Its elegant minimalism draws attention to the modern spin on traditional shapes and proportions, with colour reflecting the optimism and dynamism that spurred the luxury brand in the ‘50s.

Direct and familiar, the collection’s use of chalk-stripes to windowpane checks imitates the urban palette of a cityscape. The runaway even mimicked street crossings, as models walked in angled directions. Soft cashmere coats look weightless, as they swarm over neatly cuffed woollen trousers. The FW14 collection trending three-piece suits in a blend of velvety textures, this season’s focus on patterns with and against the grain channels both context and form.