“Here’s my philosophy, living in a penitentiary,” crooned Erykah Badu in Penitentiary Blues. And yesterday, DSquared2 brought a new mantra to the jailhouse.

FW14 was an exploration of institutionalised style, beanies and heavy boots capping off a collection that was all about the sartorial cell-block. Denim was ripped, checks ruddied and coats clean cut.

Orange quilted jackets bore the words ‘Caten’s Penitentiary’. A suit was stitched into a cover-all, keys jangling from a belt loop suggesting a warden at play. Locks were clearly necessary – the final look saw a straightjacket (albeit a luxurious looking one) stalk the runway complete with white shoes and socks.