Dean and Dan Caten’s latest Dsquared2 showing ran a little beyond fashionably late. But as this opening to Milan menswear was a simultaneous celebration of the brand’s 20^th anniversary, it’d be fair to call this their prerogative. The expectation with hitting the big 2-0 was that the double acts trademark sense of showmanship would be taken to the nth degree. Whilst this was absolutely met by the staging of both show and afterparty at the cavernous Fondazione Hangar Bicocca – which gave proceedings the scale of grand theatre, the collection itself was a slightly more understated affair. Excluding the club-loud soundtrack which crescendoed in a live performance from Mary J Blige, a quieter kind of confidence was on display. Instead of the poppish era and genre referencing we’ve grown accustomed to in recent seasons, brand signatures were re-emphasized greatest hits style. Whilst the mixture of rock and roll and Canadian Mountie inspired exits had natural runway appeal, what prevailed is the duo’s dab hand with distressed denims, luxury outerwear, and rather opulent take on fine Italian tailoring.