Following AW13’s 30s Bauhaus modernism, Neil Barrett crossed the ocean (and 20 years) to take in California minimalism.

The designer talked of engineering Charles and Ray Eames’ organic shapes, mid-century icons, to the body in inlaid fabric panels or engineered patterns.

Then contrasted their radical elegance with the visceral shred of grunge, rea lumberjack plaids in red, white and black. (Before the show began, Nirvana cover versions on piano forged a synergy between the catalysts).

Looking at this show in the context of his previous season is key. Beyond the sampling, Barrett is putting in ground work to develop a bigger picture – his own contemporary vocabulary.