Catherine Deneuve announced the look numbers at Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent SS24 show, held on an incredible all-marble stage (honestly, it must’ve weighed a ton) on the other side of the Eiffel Tower from YSL’s usual setting, with the iconic sculpture retaining its centrepiece status, just from a new angle. Prior to the show, on Saint Laurent’s Instagram, a video directed by Gasper Noé saw Eva Herzigova scale the tower in a black bodysuit. If only Ann Darrow saw this. 

As the Tower’s lights shimmered on command, Vaccarello’s vision commenced. The first look – a classic archive Safari jacket transformed into a jumpsuit, open-collared and belted at the waist – spoke of Vaccarello’s references for the season: “Amelia Earhart, Adrienne Bolland and other pioneering women who infiltrated domains once considered exclusively male, such as aviation and car racing.” 

Injecting traditional menswear codes into the designs – as is the Saint Laurent way – utilitarian details emerged. Almost everything was crafted in cotton and cast in shades of brown, tan, burgundy and black. Designs were sparse in their minimalism, with workwear pockets across carpenter-couture pleated trousers, worn with thick leather gloves, leather headwear and aviator glasses – all nodding to the high-flying pioneers previously mentioned. 

While stripped-back, looks became more potent; in strength and silhouette. Sheer fabrics brought moments of delicacy, elevated (literally) heels were mega, and chunky bracelets were stacked over gloves. A dramatic celebration of YSL femininity – meaning: strength, intellect, rigour – like Earhart and Bolland, Vaccarello’s women set their sights high and travel with speed.